July 15: Surfing and Earth Magic

July 15: Surfing and Earth Magic

I could not wait to introduce Jana to the calm and beautiful waves of Baleal. We got to the beach, I introduced her to the guys, and we rented some boards.

Read More

July 10: Serendipitous Surfer Girls

July 10: Serendipitous Surfer Girls

I woke up on July 10th and slowly made my way up to the kitchen in the hostel. For a short while, I was the only person in the space and gazed out the small window to the rooftops of tiny seaside town of Carrapateria.

Read More

July 7: Wandering

July 7: Wandering

I arrived back at the ocean early in the morning. The parking lot was empty except for a few van life souls.

I sat on the concrete bench again and wrote in my journal for a while.

Listening to the ocean and watching the waves.

Hey Big Blue

Read More

July 3: Surfeminism

July 3: Surfeminism

The third day of surfing with Naturexperience was awesome again but then some serious conversations started to happen with Finn’s Dad. We were talking on the beach while Finn and his eight year old little sister were playing in the ocean. I asked him if she was also taking surf lessons just making conversation. 

Read More

July 2: Surfing the Veggie Wave

July 2: Surfing the Veggie Wave

It was another gorgeous day surfing. The class was small and the waves were perfect. I felt like I was getting the hang of everything. I was having fun even when I was wiping out and that was growth in itself.... 

Read More