July 11: Girls to the Surf Front!

 Someone's Red Day -- Hello First Chakra

Someone's Red Day -- Hello First Chakra

I woke up early with Aicha to meet Caitlin in the lobby. Aicha, was one of my dorm mates and a waitress at the pizzeria. She was also a surfer so we added her to the crew.

Tamara was trying to wake up Maristela and eventually, we all made it to my car. We had to get creative in order to figure out how to fit five girls plus a surfboard inside my rental car but, we figured it out after a little bit of struggling. 

 Girls to the Surf Front!

Girls to the Surf Front!


We drove the dusty, bumpy road all the way to the beach. Caitlin, Aicha, and I hit the waves after renting some boards, Maristela took a surf class, and Tamara went running. It was also pretty windy  so needless to say we got our asses kicked for most of the time but remember, just one wave.

There were also a ton of surf classes in the ocean at the same time and a man with his little boy were pretty close to us which made it difficult safety wise.

(Why am I always more aware of safety issues than the kid’s own dad?)

Anyway, it was still fun. After more than an hour, we returned our boards and met on the deck.

 Pruny from surfing

Pruny from surfing

Maristela still had some time with her lesson and we were hoping Tamara would find us on the deck after her run.

Caitlin had surfed a few times in her life and Aicha started telling me how she got started.

Aicha felt like she was horrible when she started. She even felt like she would never get better, that she wanted to quit, that she would never be good enough, she started to feel like she hated surfing.

“Me too!” I said to her after every statement she made.

Then she talked to other surfers and realized, they had similar experiences. That’s the thing about surfing. Every single time in the ocean is different and it is such a STEEP learning curve. But hearing about how other people learned to surf, especially when they didn’t grow up doing it, makes it all the easier to keep going. It makes it easier to surrender to the learning process, to the ocean, and to yourself. Once you do that, you enjoy it all. If you push at it in an aggressive way, you will never get there.  

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Listening to Aicha’s experience raised my confidence.

Caitlin told us that she had only surfed a couple times before and said she was “shit awful” at it.

We were laughin and it made me realize, we so mean to ourselves when we are first learning a new skill. Why do we do that?! Of course you’re not going to be good at something right away. Even if someone has a natural talent for something or progresses faster than you do, that doesn’t mean you give up! It also doesn’t mean you’re bad at it! Surfing, life, all things take practice. Give yourself a break. Loosen up. Build confidence and for the love of God, if you love something or you want to learn something, don’t quit.

Just One Wave.

Maristela finished her lesson and Tamara found us at the table after her run.

The five of us had lunch together and watched the surf roll in with perfect long waves.

“Damn, of course the waves are better now.”

Oh well, there is always tomorrow.