June 9: Beaten by Waves

The next morning and we were back at Praia Grande.

To our surprise, Julika was watching our sunset surf from the cliffs.

“You were so good!” she said.

I was feeling a million times more confident and ready to take on the waves that morning.

However, it was the most intense surfing experience I had yet.

The current was incredibly strong and the sets of waves were so tight we could barely get out into the ocean. I felt like I was trying to push through molasses. The waves came crushing on top of us one after the other so quickly and it wasn’t letting up at all.


At one point, I turned to look at Svenja and we locked eyes from across the ocean.

“Fuck!” she shouted toward me, right before she got swallowed by a wave.

The trustworthy friend I met last night had abandoned me to become the popular mean girl.
Each time I stepped into the water, I was smacked around and then spit out at the other end of the beach two minutes later. Destroying my new-found confidence.

After an hour of this, I felt like yelling at the ocean,



There was another moment when I was out too far and got caught in the curl for a while. I wasn’t scared and I knew how to swim out of it but that did not stop Julika from almost having a heart attack.

“I thought I was going to have to come get you,” she said.

“Don’t worry I’m a strong swimmer.”

But a little bit of terror was still living in her eyes.

We talked for a little bit about other tips for swimming out of currents.

You have to swim diagonally out of it so you are not moving with it or pushing against it but swimming away from it.

“Maybe I’m only supposed to be a sunset surfer,” I joked with her.

She smiled and then pointed to my face and moved her hand over her nose and mouth.

“My face is covered in salt water and snot isn’t it?”

“Yep!” she said.