July 5: Surf & Climb


The morning of July 5th I had one of my best days surfing. It was another small group of people and the waves were absolutely perfect for us.

We even paddled out a little and ~ drum roll please ~ I caught a bunch of green waves!

Nothing beats that feeling.

That sea salt wave riding, dancing on water in the open ocean, fully free feeling.

That you're in sync with the sea and the moon and the movement feeling. 

That magic feeling.



I left my wetsuit to dry with the guys (yes I bought a wetsuit...the one that makes me feel the least like a stuffed seal) while I went to have lunch and pack up the apartment a little bit.


After, I grabbed my suit and said goodbye to the guys, I decided to explore more of the Peniche peninsula and take the DSLR with me. The go pro had been acting weird and I think it had something to do with the format of the sd card.



I don’t want to talk about what happened next...with the camera...it turned out to be fine...much later.

But after I had a mini panic attack at the apartment. I decided to spend one last night in Ball and drive to the Canon store in Lisbon in the morning.

However, I was not going to let a little digital mishap keep me from exploring. Besides, there was nothing I could do. I took some deep breaths and surrendered the situation.

"It's just a thing. It's going to be okay." I told myself. 

Back to the cliffs!

Guess who I ran into right as I pulled my car onto of one of the cliffs?


“I thought you were leaving!” she said to me.

“So did I!”

We hugged and started our exploration together.